Coq au Vin
- By Katie Roche
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- 09 Mar, 2019
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This is basically "cock/rooster in wine" in French. I skimmed a Wikipedia article on it, and apparently these birds are tough and stringy and benefit from braising, but Julia Child popularized this dish in America and now we mostly just use regular chicken from the butcher. No joke, I always discuss food with one of my doctors and she asked me what I was making for the blog this week and when I told her, she was all like, "Oh yes, coq au vin, I made that for my children last night." ??? I guess they're the exception to the nationwide epidemic of children refusing to eat anything but chicken nuggets. Anyway, since I now live in "Gamecock country", I took a little bit of pleasure in the fact that this is essentially asking you to cut up a gamecock (or a regular one, whatever) into pieces and make a stew with it...a solid metaphor for what other football teams do to the Gamecocks, like, every year.
ItemQuest was not too bad - just a trip to Ole Timey for TWO entire chickens cut into pieces and a trip to Publix for the various vegetables and a loaf of bread. I had already picked up some wine when I had been down by Trader Joe's the day before, and I stood cluelessly in the wine section trying to figure out what to buy. I still am actually not clear on what is meant by "Burgundy wine", but a quick perusal of Wiki told me that Burgundy is a region in France and their wines are usually made from Pinot Noir grapes so I bought Pinot Noir. If anyone reading this knows more about wine than I do (so like, probably anyone) please feel free to educate me. The butcher was pretty breezy, though he did ask me what I was making and I was pretty much like, "I have no idea." And unfortunately that wasn't really a lie, I was not super clear on what this was going to taste like or what it actually was.
ItemQuest was not too bad - just a trip to Ole Timey for TWO entire chickens cut into pieces and a trip to Publix for the various vegetables and a loaf of bread. I had already picked up some wine when I had been down by Trader Joe's the day before, and I stood cluelessly in the wine section trying to figure out what to buy. I still am actually not clear on what is meant by "Burgundy wine", but a quick perusal of Wiki told me that Burgundy is a region in France and their wines are usually made from Pinot Noir grapes so I bought Pinot Noir. If anyone reading this knows more about wine than I do (so like, probably anyone) please feel free to educate me. The butcher was pretty breezy, though he did ask me what I was making and I was pretty much like, "I have no idea." And unfortunately that wasn't really a lie, I was not super clear on what this was going to taste like or what it actually was.

Oh yeah, the other thing I picked up at the butcher is this fantastically thicc bacon which is very reasonably priced and exponentially more delicious than whatever you've been buying it at the store. If you're a bacon connoisseur, which, aren't we all? I highly recommend a trip to Ole Timey for this. You start the stew by chopping the bacon and cooking the pieces in the Dutch oven, in which you then brown your chicken pieces in layers.

Two entire chickens worth took three layers, and also planted a seed of panic that this whole recipe wouldn't fit into my medium (not large)-sized Dutch oven. I feel like we've been here before.

This picture is not super necessary, I just found my onion slices pleasing to the eye.

So once the chicken had finished browning, the carrots and onions were added to the pan along with, as you can see, a lot of seasoning. They cook for a while and, thankfully, shrink a little - this entire time I was worrying about everything fitting in the pot. But before that had to happen, first you add brandy to this and, I'm not kidding, light it on fire.

I'm realizing that Dan is in, like, every single picture so far doing whatever it is that I said I was doing. I was here, but he was helping me and I'm not particularly fond of matches (I know, I'm a baby) so he did this part. I just don't like having flame that close to my fingers. Every single year during the Christmas Eve candlelight service I stress out through the entirety of Silent Night while I watch the hot candle wax drip ever closer to my fingers. Yeah there's the protective cardboard or, the more progressive reusable plastic cup, but they're not 100% effective. Me + hot things next to my hands = no thanks. Dan, on the other hand, is completely impervious to temperature and can pick up hot things without oven mitts and stuff. So he lit the food on fire which was, according to Ina, to "burn off the alcohol". That mostly just leaves me wondering why we poured brandy in there in the first place?

Everything goes back into the pot at this point, with the entire bottle of Pinot Noir, some chicken stock and a bunch of sprigs of thyme. We actually left the chicken wings out in hopes of everything fitting just a little better, and thankfully, they fit a lot less precariously than the short ribs and their wine did when we were making that a couple of weeks ago. (That wasn't on the blog, but I do *highly* recommend Ina's red wine braised short ribs.) So in a true hospitality dream, this just goes in the oven for like two hours, leaving you free to vacuum (ugh) or in my case, re-watch sitcoms in my pajamas and work on the socks I'm knitting.

So when it comes out of the oven you mash butter and flour and add it to the stew to thicken it. This is not the same as a roux, which also consists of butter and flour, because a roux is cooked. This is, I learned, called a "buerre manie" in French. I think "buerre" might be one of the only French words I recognize. Holla at butter for being the best thing in all of our lives.

Much to Dan's chagrin, mushrooms cooked in a lil butter are also added at this point. I think for the traditional dish these are supposed to be "button mushrooms" but my mushroom selection was limited at Publix, as was my patience for grocery shopping in Northeast on a Saturday, so I decided against going to another grocery store and worked with what was available. I have fond memories of hunting mushrooms in the woods around our house as a child, because our neighbor was this super old guy who was also a mushroom expert, and my brother, who admired his hermit-like ways, would spend many hours over at his house learning his ways. He would then come home and take us out on mushroom hunts, and we would come back and my dad would sautee them in butter on the stove and we would eat mushrooms for dinner like we were in a Redwall novel. I remember hardly anything about the mushrooms we would eat, but I know one variety we hunted for was something my dad called "shaggy mane" which, in 2019, seems like the name of rapper who is about to plague our newsfeeds with scandals and our ears with nonsense. Alas, it is a delicious mushroom. Later in life, in true fashion of how crunchy Alaska is, the university I worked at had paid outdoor activities for their employees and one of them was a mushroom walk. The days of such activities for me are long gone, as I now share a habitat with snakes and don't typically set foot on any ground that isn't paved.

After adding in the butter paste (I can't bring myself to call it "buerre manie" - just not that pretentious), the stew is this unappetizing brown color. In the pictures, Ina's is more of a wine color so I'm not really sure if I did this wrong or what actually happened. Awkwardly enough, when I pulled out some of the chicken pieces, their meat had taken on more of a wine color that made me concerned that they were still uncooked; upon closer inspection, I realized that the color was, in fact, the result of swimming in a Dutch oven full of wine for two hours. Still, I'm just not sure how the stew itself did not take on that same color. Ina's was infinitely more appetizing.

I took a picture of the kitchen with the table set so that if anyone hasn't been to my house they can picture it. I'm particularly fond of the bay windows - my seat at the table as a child had bay windows to my back. I'm not, however, particularly fond of the floor which is impossible to keep clean. I do realize that my Alaskan cutting board is missing the entire southeastern panhandle, but we'll just say that's representative of Juneau and right now, I don't think anyone's pumped about the legislature's inability to get anything done so I'm fine with leaving the state's capital the heck outta my kitchen. The coffee sign - with "caffeine" misspelled - was a hilarious and awesome wedding gift from my bestie's mom, and the donut painting is a watercolor by my friend Kayla. Dan built the shelves that display my Starbucks mugs - I collect them and have a lot of really cool ones. The ones displayed here each represent a close friend - either where friend lives or where he or she is from. Anyway! We used our nice cloth napkins and placemats to set the table since our friends Michael and Kayla were coming over for dinner.

Perfect opportunity for usage of a blate, which Le Creuset technically calls a "pasta bowl". (Whatever, it's a bowl/plate, therefore, a "blate".) The stew is not the best thing I've ever eaten, and tastes AGGRESSIVELY like wine, but I am deeply fond of those bb pearl onions. Dan's review was the exact same as his review of the bouillabaisse, which is that he just wanted the chicken to be boneless. Due to having been in the oven for a longer period of time, this chicken was, however, significantly easier to remove from the bones. It's just tiresome and messy and inconvenient to sit at your table with guests trying to shred chicken off of a bone, only to have to then collect and throw away said bones before anyone can really enjoy his stew uninhibited. In this case, I guess the convenience of having two inactive hours of cooking time with which to clean house for guests is balanced out by the whole bone-in chicken thing. I previously mentioned Ina's red-wine-braised short ribs in this post and the inactive hours apply there but the bones are removed before serving and are quite a bit easier to remove. So as far as flavor goes, this was okay but not my favorite. It's not the easiest thing ever to prepare and I probably would not make it again. Dan took a lot of the pictures for this and emailed them to me and the subject line of his email says "I wish it was boneless".
In the intro to the recipe, Ina talks about her hesitation to make this; she says that it kind of intimated her until her friend Barbara or Anna (I think those are her two main girls and I can't remember which one said it) told her that it's just beef bourguignon with chicken and AHA! No problem. She was able to make it so easily! Well, I just looked up her beef bourguignon recipe and I know there are a thousand ways to make fun of her "if you can't _______, then storebought is fine" but holy COW (literally) - if you can't abide sitting at your table with guests removing chicken bones from extremely hot stew, her EXACT SAME RECIPE WITH BEEF is fine.
In the intro to the recipe, Ina talks about her hesitation to make this; she says that it kind of intimated her until her friend Barbara or Anna (I think those are her two main girls and I can't remember which one said it) told her that it's just beef bourguignon with chicken and AHA! No problem. She was able to make it so easily! Well, I just looked up her beef bourguignon recipe and I know there are a thousand ways to make fun of her "if you can't _______, then storebought is fine" but holy COW (literally) - if you can't abide sitting at your table with guests removing chicken bones from extremely hot stew, her EXACT SAME RECIPE WITH BEEF is fine.

For this post, I wanted to combine two summertime flavors into the crisp recipe one of my oldest Alaskan friends passed on to me years ago. Rhubarb, if you're unfamiliar, is a reddish stalk that kind of resembles really big celery. It's very tart and is most commonly paired with strawberry. I've rarely seen it star in its own show dessert-wise, but my friend Kylee has been making rhubarb crisp for years and it's the best crisp I know of. Blueberries are usually in season in late summer; I have not been home for a blueberry season since Dan's last deployment in 2018 so in order to make this recipe I actually used blueberries from a friend's parents' farm in upstate SC! They're a little sweeter than the blueberries I'd have picked at home, but they worked well. I'm going to pretend like I was actually picking blueberries at home in Alaska for the purpose of showing you what that would look like.

I was getting all ready to write this post, going through my process with photos starting in my kitchen when I realized that a lot of my friends probably don't know what fireweed is or where it comes from and this recipe actually starts far, far away from my kitchen. This will be the first of a few posts highlighting iconic Alaskan ingredients. I've wanted to do this for a while because my home inspires me in so many ways, writing and cooking particular among them. Fireweed is a wildflower that is rather ubiquitous in southcentral Alaska and is often considered a gauge for how long summer will last. It is said that when the blooms reach the top of the plant, winter is six weeks away. Whether or not that's accurate, fireweed is found all over in late summer in Alaska. Here is some I spotted in mid-July by Eklutna Lake:
If you know Dan and me very well, you probably know by now that if our life were a sitcom, he'd low-key be the funniest character. Because that is true, I thought I'd include his bottom ten with accompanying remarks before giving the actual bottom ten. His are hilarious, but aren't as legitimate as mine because he actually tried way fewer of these than one might think. I realized as he was flipping through the book that my old coworker Cam probably ate more of these foods than anyone else did. The overarching theme of Dan's song of Ina Garten hatred is not the actual taste of the finished product but more how asinine he finds that particular recipe to be. So here you are, Dan's bottom ten.
#1: Butternut Squash Soup
#1: Butternut Squash Soup

You guys asked for my top ten from the blog, so here we go! And I'm thinking that what you *really* want is actually the bottom ten, so I'll go ahead and give you those next week. That post will probably be A LOT funnier. While preparing to write this post, I had Dan flip through the cookbook to give me HIS top ten and he was all disgruntled as he did so and only came up with eight that he even liked at all. "I'm not a picky eater!" he insists. Yeah ok. Although to be fair, I've seen some cookbooks I would only make, like, one thing out of and plenty I'd make nothing out of, though sometimes that's because I find the chef so annoying. @ the Pioneer Woman. I just don't trust someone who puts sour cream in spaghetti and then bakes it. Plus all her recipe intros are about, like, Ladd or Tadd or whatever the heck her husband's name is "coming in from the fields starving for dinner". If I came in from working in a field and you tried to give me sour cream spaghetti, I'd be like, "How about a hot pocket instead? Thx." Anyway, this is not Dan's blog so these are not his top ten. You can ask him which ones he liked, but you'll end up in a long convo about how much he hates Ina Garten. Anyway, these are not ranked or anything, they're just in order from the cookbook.
So with that, #1: Juice of a Few Flowers
So with that, #1: Juice of a Few Flowers

It was Sunday afternoon and I thought to myself, "What a perfect time to make jam!" I mean, how positively quaint: just sitting in my home in suburbia, finished with weekend chores, relaxing with some knitting...why not? Why not make some jam? I mean, obviously my afternoon-kitchen-activity was directed toward jam-making because it was next up in the book BUT whatever, I was kind of excited! Also, this is the last recipe in this book!!! I'm still in the process of deciding what I'll do now, so if there's something you'd like me to make and tell you about in my own fashion - you know, with lots of tangents and jokes - please do let me know! I'll likely continue to tackle Ina content, but may start including some recipe faves and/or foods people text me about a lot! I get a lot of cake questions, a LOT of frosting questions (because meringue buttercream is bae and I've got everyone in my social circles who eats my food on board), and a lot of fish questions. So look for more food to come, even though this is the last recipe in Back to Basics.
We went to Publix to ItemQuest for this and Dan said, "Don't we already have strawberries???" And I had to confess that I had eaten them all because it's honestly amazing how good fruit can be when it's 1) in season, 2) somewhat local, and 3) not ludicrously expensive. I'm about to travel home to Alaska for about a month, and it's going to put a real damper on my current fruit-snacking habits when I go into Fred Meyer for some strawbs and they're like, $7/lb and already trying to be moldy. Also needed blueberries (partly for the jam, mostly for the snax), one Granny Smith apple, and more superfine sugar. Publix had all of these things, plus about a million old people 'cause Sunday + Publix = Old People City.
We went to Publix to ItemQuest for this and Dan said, "Don't we already have strawberries???" And I had to confess that I had eaten them all because it's honestly amazing how good fruit can be when it's 1) in season, 2) somewhat local, and 3) not ludicrously expensive. I'm about to travel home to Alaska for about a month, and it's going to put a real damper on my current fruit-snacking habits when I go into Fred Meyer for some strawbs and they're like, $7/lb and already trying to be moldy. Also needed blueberries (partly for the jam, mostly for the snax), one Granny Smith apple, and more superfine sugar. Publix had all of these things, plus about a million old people 'cause Sunday + Publix = Old People City.

I was glad Ina gave me something easy for this week, because I was packing for Alaska and just *did not have the time* to mess with hunting lobsters or weird cheeses from the internet or whatever. ItemQuest was fairly straightforward, just took Dan a trip to the liquor store next to the Publix for some limoncello. I grabbed this particular lemon curd in the British aisle of Publix; I think last time an Ina recipe called for lemon curd I bought it from Trader Joe's and it was DISGUSTING. I mean, truly awful. I would like to recommend making your own lemon curd if you have the time and the inclination. Ina's lemon curd recipe is phenomenal and it is one thing for which I can say she is truly correct: homemade is BETTER and store-bought is not at all as good. The most beloved cupcakes I have ever made were filled with Ina's lemon curd, and had the lemon curd mixed into the meringue buttercream frosting. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!! Anyway, the rest of this was fruit that I had on hand, mint, and Greek yogurt which we did have to buy because I don't, as a rule, eat Greek yogurt of my own free will. It's chalky and disgusting.

Dates are something I honestly never even thought about until I did Whole 30. I have mentioned my Whole 30 experience several times over the course of this journey through Back to Basics, but if you're new to reading the blog, this is what happened: I did Whole 30 one time, just to prove that I could, because salvation-by-diet apologists were obsessed with it as the newest fad in righteous eating practices. It was a terrible experience; on top of hating every minute of it for myself and finding exactly zero wellness benefits, I also hated it for Dan who was not allowed to eat popcorn for 30 days. Dan is in love with popcorn; his addiction to it is almost at the level of my addiction to coffee. He gets rage-y without it. But anyway, Whole 30 recipes are big into dates as sweeteners and some of the things you can eat, like Lara Bars, are made with dates. Dates are impossibly chewy. I ate more of them in that 30 days than I ever wanted to, and now when I see them in recipes I can't help but think of that Whole 30. Fortunately for me, I got to begin this recipe by chopping TWO CUPS' worth of dates. Oh, they also kind of look like cockroach bodies, so there's that. The only thing I actually had to get at the store for this was oranges! I had everything else on hand, even Cointreau, thanks to many previous Ina recipes.

Alright so, I'm not the Muffin Man. I don't really make a whole lot of muffins, for a lot of reasons, one of the main ones being that on the rankings of breakfast foods they definitely do not crack the top five, maybe not even the top ten. If I have an option for a bagel or a waffle, I'll pick one of them over a muffin every single time. I also prefer cereal, cinnamon rolls, or *cue eye roll* avocado toast. I've just never risen from my slumber and been like, "You know what would really hit the spot right now? A MUFFIN." But!!! In recent months, since my friend Logan came into my life, I've been making muffins a lot more frequently because he really loves them. So the last blueberry muffins I made were from a 99cent Betty Crocker mix packet which he brought into my house and asked me sweetly to make, because they're what he grew up with and along with many preservatives, they are full of nostalgia for him. Here is Logan and me, preparing to mix the muffin batter. Out of respect (and to make up for the disrespect of rolling up with muffin mix), he wore one of my aprons. I will treasure this picture forever.

You guys...Ina has "a thing" about commercial granola bars. Her beef with them, apparently, is that they say they contain real fruit and nuts but that all she sees when she looks at the labels are like, ten different kinds of corn syrup. I'm going to go ahead and guess, just based on this, that none of the lunches her mom packed for her growing up contained any Fruit By the Foot. And surely if we introduced her to Gushers, she would die. This is a real shame. I also feel like this disdain for corn syrup is maybe just a tad self-righteous, coming from the woman whose frosting recipe calls for literally six entire sticks of butter. At that point, what's a little corn syrup to you really? People's nutritional hills-to-die-on really fascinate me (and also kind of annoy me sometimes) and the ones about sugar might get me the most. I feel like, at some point, sugar is sugar and whether you're baking with honey, white sugar, brown sugar, molasses, maple syrup, etc you're still probably making something that's not amazing for you so, in terms of sugar, why not just be in for a penny in for a pound, amirite? So while I'm on this topic, before I even get to the actual point (please, I know you're here for the tangents), I would like to just let anyone and everyone know that I'm absolutely not interested in your "healthy substitutes" for things that taste good in their original form. I do not WANT a chocolate chip pancake made out of bananas and grains you harvested in your field this morning. If I want a banana I will eat one, and if I want a chocolate chip pancake I will eat one, and that's that. And DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT come @ me with "cashew cheese". Just don't. I don't even think I should honor that concept with an explanation of why it's so wrong. If that's not self-evident, I can't help you.
So down to the granola bar ingredients. I rolled up to Kroger only to find that their already meager bulk bins had been EMPTIED because if you scoop dates into a bag and then someone else scoops dates into a bag, you might get the coronavirus. I'm glad they've taken the precaution of removing this shopping option, since I cannot resisting licking my hands after every grocery trip I make. Thankfully, they still had the lil tower of small containers of some of the weirder items right there in the organic section, which was where I was able to find dates. The rest of this stuff was on the baking aisle, with the exception of wheat germ which was, for some reason, with the cereal. I'm still kind of unclear on what wheat germ is actually used for by people, and the context of it being located on the cereal aisle makes me wonder even more. Do people eat it like grape nuts? Sprinkle it on stuff like how people like to do with nutritional yeast right now? ("It tastes just like cheese!" You know what else tastes like cheese? Actual cheese. You're welcome.) Anyway, I was very grateful that Kroger at least had everything I needed and I didn't have to go on a for real ItemQuest.
So down to the granola bar ingredients. I rolled up to Kroger only to find that their already meager bulk bins had been EMPTIED because if you scoop dates into a bag and then someone else scoops dates into a bag, you might get the coronavirus. I'm glad they've taken the precaution of removing this shopping option, since I cannot resisting licking my hands after every grocery trip I make. Thankfully, they still had the lil tower of small containers of some of the weirder items right there in the organic section, which was where I was able to find dates. The rest of this stuff was on the baking aisle, with the exception of wheat germ which was, for some reason, with the cereal. I'm still kind of unclear on what wheat germ is actually used for by people, and the context of it being located on the cereal aisle makes me wonder even more. Do people eat it like grape nuts? Sprinkle it on stuff like how people like to do with nutritional yeast right now? ("It tastes just like cheese!" You know what else tastes like cheese? Actual cheese. You're welcome.) Anyway, I was very grateful that Kroger at least had everything I needed and I didn't have to go on a for real ItemQuest.

At first I saw the pictures of this and thought, "YAY!!! Cinnamon rolls!" And then a couple of weeks ago, I actually tried making cinnamon rolls for the first time and realized that my inability to roll/shape/slice yeast doughs is still a thing. AND THEN I read this entire recipe and realized these get filled with raisins. So here we go!
ItemQuest was only dramatic because the stores just DID NOT have puff pastry sheets; I was only finding it in "shells". I tried Bi-Lo and Dan tried Food Lion before he finally located sheets at Publix. The rest of the ingredients, I already had on hand!
ItemQuest was only dramatic because the stores just DID NOT have puff pastry sheets; I was only finding it in "shells". I tried Bi-Lo and Dan tried Food Lion before he finally located sheets at Publix. The rest of the ingredients, I already had on hand!